When an opener “suddenly stops working,” the culprit is often something simple: a blocked sensor, a dead remote battery, a misaligned track, or a door that’s become too heavy to lift. Use this checklist to rule out the easy stuff safely before you schedule service.
Safety first (read this before you test anything)
- If the door is off-track, crooked, or you see frayed cables, stop and call a pro.
- If the door feels much heavier than usual, don’t keep cycling it with the opener—heavy doors can indicate spring or cable issues.
- Avoid “guessing” on force settings. Over-adjusting can create safety risks.
Step 1: Check power and controls
Confirm power at the opener
- Make sure the outlet works (test with a lamp).
- If you have a ceiling outlet that’s controlled by a wall switch, confirm it’s on.
Try the wall button
If the wall button works but remotes don’t, you’re likely dealing with a remote/battery/programming issue—not a motor failure.
Step 2: Photo-eye sensors (the #1 cause of “won’t close”)
If the door closes and immediately reverses, or won’t close at all, start here:
- Clean the lenses gently (dust and cobwebs matter).
- Check alignment: the indicator lights should look stable (not flickering).
- Verify the sensor brackets haven’t been bumped or twisted.
- Make sure the sensor wires are intact and not pinched.
Step 3: Door balance (is the opener fighting the door?)
With the door closed:
- Pull the emergency release cord to disconnect the opener.
- Lift the door manually about halfway.
What you want:
- The door should feel manageable and should not slam down or shoot up.
If it’s extremely heavy or won’t stay put, the issue is usually in the spring/balance system—schedule spring service before you damage the opener. Start here: Spring Replacement.
Step 4: Remote and keypad checks
- Replace remote batteries.
- Try a second remote if you have one.
- If you use a keypad, confirm the keypad battery and re-enter the PIN carefully.
If you recently had power flickers, some units may need a re-sync. Your opener manual will outline the safe programming steps for your model.
Step 5: Travel limits and force settings (only if you have the manual)
If the door starts down and reverses before touching the floor, travel settings may be off—but this can also be caused by:
- Binding rollers
- Bent track
- A door that’s out of level
- A failing spring
If you adjust settings, make small, incremental changes, then test the safety reversal features immediately afterward.
When to schedule opener repair (common “pro-only” symptoms)
Call a technician if you notice:
- Grinding, popping, or loud mechanical noises from the opener
- The opener runs, but the trolley doesn’t move reliably
- Settings drift and won’t “hold”
- The door reverses randomly after you’ve cleaned/aligned sensors
If you want a professional diagnosis or an upgrade to a newer smart opener, see Opener Repair & Install or contact us.
Related reads
- Not sure if the opener type matters? See Chain Drive vs. Belt Drive Openers
- If the door is noisy (even when it works): Noisy Garage Door Fixes
FAQs
Why does my door open fine but won’t close?
Most of the time, that’s a sensor or obstruction issue. Start with photo-eyes, debris in the track area, and anything that could be interrupting the sensor beam. If sensors look fine but the door still reverses, the door may be binding or out of balance.
My opener runs but the door doesn’t move—what’s happening?
That can be a disengaged trolley, a broken internal gear, or a door problem that caused the opener to “give up.” If the door won’t lift smoothly by hand, start with spring/balance service: Spring Replacement.
When is it an emergency?
If the door is stuck open, off-track, or hanging unevenly, treat it as urgent. Start here: Garage Door Repair.
